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Gloom Sans Doom

Gloom Sans Doom

Colorful, energetic pieces from Portland, Oregon artisans and beyond to pull you out of the pits on the grayest days of the season.

Em Seely-Katz's avatar
Em Seely-Katz
Dec 27, 2024
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Gloom Sans Doom
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Hey all! I’ve been spending quite a bit of time in Portland, Oregon this holiday season and while here, have developed a newfound appreciation for rain boots, gloves, and the nearly-overwrought stylings of a city predicated upon its citizens seeing the sun once every 5-10 business days for more than half of the year. If the folks here adapted NYC-esque uniforms of black and gray Carolyn Bessette-type casuals, they’d have to pump Wellbutrin into the water system to buoy spirits, so I’ve noticed myself and the general public gravitating toward a lot of extraneous color, kitschy designs, and flamboyant textures. Let’s just say, if I were in NYC right now, canary-yellow rain boots would probably never have crossed my mind as sensible footwear options, but here, totally sensical. I’m also reminded of the Buenos Aires fashion scene in how, seeing as both cities are tucked into obscure-ish corners of their continents, there is a strong emphasis on artisanship that creates some of the most bizarre and beautiful one-of-one pieces I’ve seen since my time south of the equator.

Below is a collection of pieces I discovered through my time window shopping around Portland boutiques like Superette, The Yo Store, and Fine Art Fruit (everyone and their mother recommended Frances May but that store’s a bit too rich for my stock—good for looking at deep-cut Bode and Simone Rocha in person, but not super exciting as a shopping spot save for those with the deepest pockets), plus random pieces I’ve found online while out here that feel like they make sense given my attitude toward fashion generated by this gloomy city. Also, not to brag, but my skin is the best it’s ever been right now (my sister compulsively pinches my cheeks), and paid subs will discover the product that—and I never say shit like this—literally fixed my dry retinol-in-winter skin in two days. Thanks for reading!

If you like these posts, please let me know by liking and commenting here or on Esque’s Instagram, subbing to the Esque Substack (this) for free, getting bonus posts for five bucks a month, or for ZERO DOLLARS, share (tag me if on IG so I can see and thank you)! If you share with three friends (or enemies), you’ll automatically get a free month’s subscription to Esque’s paywalled posts. If you buy anything from an Esque link, there’s a chance I’ll earn a percentage commission at no cost to you—if you end up inspired by anything below, please send over a photo of your new togs by replying to this email and I’ll comp you a month of Esque!

If you cannot afford the $5/month, I totally understand—respond to any of my email sends and I will get you a $2 subscription or comp you, whatever you need. Esque is for everyone!

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THANK YOU for being here, and I am always available @that.esque on Instagram for sartorial scandals/situations/summons. Here is a little preview of what’s below the paywall:

Hand-Painted Belt - €125

I found some of this brand “Exquisite J”’s truly ineffable socks at Superette and was delighted to see that its entire range of accessories was just as wonderfully off-kilter—reminds me of my old favorite Misu A Barbe but seems easier to source in the states. I love the chintzy elastic of the above belt contrasted with its romantically painted buckle.

Hand-Painted Bag - €266

More delicious colors—I hardly ever see external shearling I like, but this is the first bag I’ve seen that I’d ever describe as “cozy”—it works, and the blue-and-red strap is the perfect foil to the nutty suede body.

Feather Pin - €79

You really should just DIY this pin, but I love the idea of getting 10and ringing them around your collar or hemline.

Gloves - €98

The brand’s true tour de forces are its socks and gloves, each created in a colorway that feels like something conjured up in a distant dream.

Mustard Yellow & Black Ankle Rain Boot - $129.95

My sister has these exact boots in dark green, and I got envious of her ability to walk down the street without dirty water soaking through her sneakers. I’ll have to get insoles for arch support, but these boots are rugged, crease-resistant, and very warm, with a clever neoprene lining and subtly textured rubber. Yellow was my favorite of those available in the one little boutique that sells them here, but if I had bothered to order online (I’m glad I didn’t, as I figured out I had to size up), I’d have gone for the bright green. I’m interested in how styling these will work—on a basic level, I want some black sweatpants to tuck into them when I can’t be bothered to think about it. These Richer Poorers would be ideal. I want a bright yellow scarf or beanie to match the boots.

Aytama Top - $175.99

I think I got served an ad for this company, Maison Mume, and I totally fell for it—the algo knows I love crunchy, gothy little frills, and I was pleased to see many pieces are 100% cotton. I’m worried about the growing trend of people getting tricked by mid-tier brands into paying too much for shitty quality, but I’d really like to try this stuff, and if I ever do, I’ll of course report back.

Eliezer Cropped Long Sleeve Top - $230.99

I’m completely smitten with the sleeves on this top. I almost wish it were a sweater/bolero for some reason.

Nube Top - $154.99

I’m an absolute fool for both puffy shoulders and raglan-cut sleeves, so this was designed in a lab to make me feel covetous (I’d INSTANTLY stain it, as I did half my clothes this week by washing them all with a ballpoint pen. #fml).

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