Hello! This year has been so bad for me that I’ve found myself, instead of feeling yearning for better times, nostalgic for past brands of abjection, past modes of depression, a different hell. I try not to write about my personal life on here for various reasons, foremost that it is a fashion blog, and I feel precious about that compartmentalization, but it also feels insane to be in such a foul phase of life, brain buzzing like a hive, and not mention it offhand when I’m penning what at the end of the day is a personal blog.
When something fucked up happens to essentially everyone in the world at once (#aboutlastnight), I feel even less compelled to rein in my doldrums, because at least despair is an existential Gorilla Glue, and I feel very connected to you all right now—I didn’t watch “it,” because I as a rule don’t engage with the tomfoolery and kabuki theater of federal politics, but boy do I know it was bad. I can’t think of a single overlap in the Venn diagram of “people who would subscribe to this newsletter” and “people who aren’t feeling especially fatalistic today,” so instead I’ll just welcome you to my campground in the inferno we all co-inhabit.
I like it when fashion can be a salve, and though the whole commercial aspect eludes me at this financial nadir of my life, I have in fact seen many style-related things in the past few days that have made me feel a bit more human and a bit less convinced that eternal rest is the only viable path for a future studded with nuggets of inspiration and potential. Here they are below, numbering 13 for no particular reason, and I hope they provide you with some modicum of a moment in which weltschmerz is not the sole feature.
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If I had a nickel for every time I’ve seen shiso on a cocktail menu, whether as essence, foam, or garnish, and been like “oh my god, I LOVE shiso! So underrated!” to the bartender who in that moment is trying to kill me with their eyes (but a few drinks/tips later typically realizes I Act in Good Faith and warms up to my weebish gastroinstincts), I’d have like 17 nickels, easy. The bandage-as-accessory thing is severely underrated outside of the Picrew (rip??) circuit, but the concept of literally garnishing myself with one of these diaphanous, detailed leaves is making me go crazy that they’re not real, as far as I can see (reply to this email or comment if you have a plug!!). And if you haven’t already, just rip a little shiso leaf over a bowl of lightly salted short-grain rice. The ineffable flavor will alter your understanding of taste for the better.
The untagged fit god, Chikezie, made so clear to me something that’s been gnawing at me for months—look at the new season teasers from Paolina Russo:
And most anything from the past few years of SC103:
Chikezie’s shirt is LucMatton, a brand that produces retro pan-African printed casual wear, though for some reason I can’t find any info about its designers or owners and it seems to be sold mainly via Am*zon. Their skirt is AlkebulanLifestyle, a more-transparent seeming pan-African label, and their accessories seem to be artisanal Nigerian and Kenyan creations. As per Chikezie: “I am Nigerian American and I love traditional African clothing and adornments. I am passionate about decolonization and I try to practice decolonization through fashion.”
In a way that I think could actually be more pure-hearted and genuinely appreciative than the typical deployments of cultural appropriation, I can’t see how the aesthetic du jour as demonstrated by Paolina and SC isn’t somehow connected to these garments African people have been wearing for centuries. Like how I’ve written about Jewish fashion in the past, I do believe there is a way to “appropriate,” or be inspired by, cultures one is not part of in a way that isn’t inherently violent or offensive, and I don’t think any of the mentioned brands are perpetrating a wrongdoing—maybe they aren’t even fully aware of this connection. But the tribal-leaning graphics, brightly-patterned textiles, luxurious beadwork and more make me feel like if there isn’t an explicit interaction with African style, things might go sour for this uniquely invigorating aesthetic school in the next few years. I’d love to see SC and Paolina work with Black designers and fashion plates to augment and nuance these looks somehow!
Ok all the focus is on the far right figure but all three of them have that shit ON! Puff sleeve jacket over drop-waist dress? The neckline of the middle sweater paired with the green collar? And yes, most importantly, the rED CINDERELLA SUIT WITH THE JADE BOLO TIE. All important.
Everyone’s thirsting for Schiaparelli menswear now that creative director Daniel Roseberry showed up looking, as the good boys would say, clean as fuck in this bone denim shirt-jacket (can’t get used to calling it ‘shacket’) with contrast stitching, especially moving because…
The buttons. Are keyholes. If there were ever a worthy moment for a sartorial swoon, it’s this. Nerd dhit in the good way.
The fact that you can buy a dress of this hand-stitched caliber for under $200 should make you feel like there is something, *something* in this world worth living for. Watch the video in the post above for a humbling display of artistry.
I had never heard of pilates socks until this user suggested they be worn with clogs. I heartily agree. Somehow this look is more compelling to me than a comparable criss-cross balletcore shoe.
I feel like everyone knows how I feel about 258pmsalon by now, but if you don’t: just know that this is a pinnacle of something. Tan appliquéd tank + scaly sheer skirt + and this is essential, BLACK SOCKS + sneaks? Magic was worked off its ass here.
This reminds me a ton of Hurtence’s past endeavors, and I’m thrilled Dauan Jacari has joined us on this side of the “put shit on your head and see what makes sense” internet. Almost turban-like with all the mystery and none of the anti-Arab sentiment—here for $196.
This Armani look is validation for the no-sock suckers (sorry) in this community: slightly incongruent hues of one color (navy blue) typically jibe in a freaky-fun way, plus SWEATERS TIED ACROSS THE SHOULDERS WILL NEVER BE UNDERMINED!
Though it doesn’t seem to be up on its site yet, I am emotional about the Banzo sailor shirt—I will never let go of my two years of sabot supremacy, and I love the sailor x office siren crossover.
Just makes me happy that not only do beautiful things often need to be conditioned into pragmatism, but essentially pragmatic objects sometimes have to/should be hewn into beautiful objects. Also, something essentially SC103 about this and I will not be taking further questions.
The extension of the iris and pupil is revolutionary. All ye with non-hooded eyes, take heed (I’m pretty sure mine are, but that doesn’t mean I won’t try to make this work, possibly tonight).
Lastly, the gesture of jewelry poking though a clothing hole might be gimmicky, but it never gets old to me, somehow.
Here’s to hoping—
<3 ESK
you scared me for a second, I thought Picrew had gone defunct! love the pilates socks + clogs and the lace safety vest. sending lots of comfort and healing vibes your way!! <3
The lace safety vest made me feel really tender actually.
Hope your year gets better <3